| 伊锋, 房克照, 吴金孔, 王平, 张炜, 王浩.规则波作用下砾石滩剖面演化物理模型试验研究[J].海洋工程,2025,(6):140~151 |
| 规则波作用下砾石滩剖面演化物理模型试验研究 |
| Laboratory study on gravel beach profile evolution under regular waves |
| 投稿时间：2024-09-12 |
| DOI：10.16483/j.issn.1005-9865.2025.06.014 |
| 中文关键词: 砾石滩 物理模型试验 剖面演变 水动力特征 |
| 英文关键词:gravel beach physical model experiment profile evolution hydrodynamic characteristics |
| 基金项目:国家自然科学基金资助项目（52071057） |
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| 摘要点击次数: 81 |
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| 中文摘要: |
| 通过在波浪水槽中进行砾石滩剖面演化试验，研究了规则波对砾石滩水动力特性及岸滩剖面变形的影响。利用浪高仪阵列和超声波浪高仪、点式流速计、孔隙水压力传感器、激光地形扫描仪和高速相机收集数据，分析了波面变化、波浪非线性、海底回流和孔压分布等特征，探讨了影响岸滩剖面变形的因素，拟合了实验室尺度冲泄区平衡剖面公式。试验发现：动床海滩由于形成滩肩型剖面，对波浪水动力有较大影响，粒径对破波点位置影响较小，但粗砾石可有效降低破碎波高；海底回流强度和孔压幅值在岸滩不同位置处的表现均不同；冲泄区的剖面变形最剧烈且泥沙以向岸输运为主，这与冲泄区波浪非线性强、上冲流与回落流的不对称性有关；砾石滩演变可分为调整和平衡阶段，较粗砾石加速平衡过程；平衡剖面形态可分为反射型和阶地型，并据此分类进行地形拟合，SHINGLE模型可较好地预测滩肩地形，但会过大预测水下地形侵蚀；波高是影响剖面变形的关键因素，初始坡度和粒径对滩肩发育位置影响较大。 |
| 英文摘要: |
| This study investigates the effects of regular waves on the hydrodynamic characteristics and profile evolution of gravel beaches through wave flume experiments. Data were collected using a wave gauge array, ultrasonic wave gauges, ADV, pore pressure sensors, laser terrain scanners, and high-speed cameras. The analysis focused on wave surface variations, wave nonlinearity, undertow, and pore pressure distribution, and explored factors influencing beach profile changes. A laboratory-scale empirical formula for equilibrium profiles in the swash zone was also developed. The experiments revealed that berm-type profiles formed on mobile beds exerted significant influence on wave hydrodynamics. Sediment grain size had limited impact on the location of wave breaking, but coarser gravel effectively reduced breaking wave heights. Undertow intensity and pore pressure amplitude varied spatially along the beach. The most intense profile deformation occurred in the swash zone, mainly due to onshore sediment transport, which is associated with strong wave nonlinearity and asymmetric uprush and backwash flows. Gravel beach evolution was characterized by adjustment and equilibrium stages, with coarser gravel accelerating equilibrium formation. Equilibrium profiles were classified into reflective and stepped types, and terrain fitting was performed accordingly. The SHINGLE model provided good predictions of berm morphology but tended to overestimate underwater erosion. Wave height was identified as the dominant factor influencing profile deformation, while initial slope and sediment grain size significantly affected berm formation location. |
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